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Wideload's Motor Works

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Wideload's Motor Works Empty 27t super stock comm cut

Post  WIDELOAD Thu Feb 24, 2011 10:40 am

EDIT: removed pics of the 27t that i cut.

Plus a bonus, one seriously rooted 19t single. If you're comm looks like this you're in trouble! Evil or Very Mad
Yes its able to be rebuilt, but its seriously overdue.
Wideload's Motor Works Stuffedcomm



Last edited by WIDELOAD on Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:14 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  scottb Thu Feb 24, 2011 12:50 pm

very good Troy......hope it goes well. Have you ever tried french chalk?
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Post  WIDELOAD Thu Feb 24, 2011 1:58 pm

French chalk? Using it for what man?Suspect

p.s. Now you know why i wanted to grab the Radon off ya Scotty...to get some more practice in. Luckily i got a heap of old arms off a mate who used to race back in the day.
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Post  scottb Thu Feb 24, 2011 10:51 pm

French chalk is an old mechanics trick to clean the black and slightly skim the armiture to fit new brush's

Are i see so do you still want it?
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Post  WIDELOAD Fri Feb 25, 2011 1:46 am

scottb wrote:French chalk is an old mechanics trick to clean the black and slightly skim the armiture to fit new brush's

Are i see so do you still want it?

Yeah if you're still offering. I've got a few here i can put together and find a good runner for you're drifter.

Nah i looked it up the last night, French Chalk actually causes more damage to the Comm than good. It causes the Comm to come out of round and also starts to hourglass it.
Even Comm sticks you buy form the hobby shops are a bad idea, they do the same thing.

To clean the Comm you either do a skim on the lathe, or if its only carbon build up (which it usually isnt) you use a Pink Pearl artists eraser while the motor is spun up on the lathe

For best performance you want to keep the arm round, concentric and Square along its length(not cone shaped/hourglass etc). This ensures the brushes are in best contact and also provides the least wear.

I'll put a another lot of pics this arvo of a 17t double i did yesterday. 4 cuts to restore it.



Last edited by WIDELOAD on Fri Feb 25, 2011 8:22 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : narf.......)
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Wideload's Motor Works Empty 17t double...

Post  WIDELOAD Fri Feb 25, 2011 8:22 am

What a Face


Last edited by WIDELOAD on Fri Aug 05, 2011 2:11 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  Ads Tue Mar 01, 2011 5:22 am

thats real cool troy, liking your work big time, very nice

are just knockin off bare minimum each skim til she comes back square again? or you have an idea depending on the condition as to where u start off?
if u dont wanna giv ur tricks of the trade away no dramas lol! understandable.

cool work mate and those prices should keep u pretty busy Shocked

cheers
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Post  WIDELOAD Tue Mar 01, 2011 7:15 am

Cheers Ads.
You're on the money mate, i try not to take off anymore that .01mm total unless absolutely necessary.
But as you said it does come down to what the motor is like to start with.
The idea is to get is round, and square across the length.



Havent had any business yet, but that comes down to if people give a crap about their motors or not. lol
geek
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Post  Ads Tue Mar 01, 2011 8:53 am

yea cool. its crazy the small tolerences really are on the electrics. thats f*** all compared taking run out, out of a warped brake rotor.

ill bring my old losi can and some $'s out on sundy mate for you to give a once over. then maybe if chuck still wants it, it will be a freshy haha.

cheers ads
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Post  WIDELOAD Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:05 am

Yeah if you want man, but i'm not able to do sealed can motors.
So if its a sealed can, no go. They're designed as a throw away item.

EDIT: To talk of run out, as we all know, no lathe is perfect.
I do have run out on this one, it between .001 & .002mm depending on the motor itself.
Ive found some motors shafts themselves have run out so it snowballs the the comm etc.
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Post  scottb Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:22 am

Hey Troy, are you any good at sensored elect-boards on my venom brushless.... two contacts unsolderd......went to remove the rear bearing housing which the sensor board is attached. Thats the only thing i can think of at the moment as the motor is making a tapping noise when just giving a lil bit of throttle. flaten it and its ok. stall test against the wall slowly and it dose it again. What do you think Troy?? The only other thing i can think ofis hooking up the program card and adjusting the punch mode....dunno.
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Post  WIDELOAD Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:05 am

If its only a broken solder joint i should be able to fix it man. Its either that or the sensor itself has #### itself.
Bring it round & ill have a butchers at it.
What the tapping noise is would be brushless stutter because the hall effect sensor isnt picking up the position of the rotor.
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Post  scottb Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:33 am

Thanks man......might see if i can come over thuesday. if thats okay?
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Post  WIDELOAD Tue Mar 01, 2011 11:26 am

Yeah man...just shoot us a txt.
I should be home tho.
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Post  Ads Wed Mar 02, 2011 2:56 am

yea i no what your talking aobut with the run out.

i have a feeling those losi cans are sealed now that u mention it. Rolling Eyes
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Post  scottb Thu Mar 03, 2011 3:07 am

Hey all....just like to say what great service Troy has given me with his new business. When fitting new bearings to my Venom brushless the other day, i accidently snapped a sensor on the electrical board as i was removing it. So i gave it to Troy this morning to repair/re-solder the two pins, through it back in the truck and Sweet as....problem solved. There was no effort & he new exactly what to do.
Thanks again Troy you saved me heaps of stress in trying to find a new part, by repairing the old one. cheers cheers

Thumbs up to a great job.

Scott
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Post  azwa Thu Mar 03, 2011 4:39 pm

scottb wrote:Hey all....just like to say what great service Troy has given me with his new business. When fitting new bearings to my Venom brushless the other day, i accidently snapped a sensor on the electrical board as i was removing it. So i gave it to Troy this morning to repair/re-solder the two pins, through it back in the truck and Sweet as....problem solved. There was no effort & he new exactly what to do.
Thanks again Troy you saved me heaps of stress in trying to find a new part, by repairing the old one. cheers cheers

Thumbs up to a great job.

Scott


good to know we have an house leco cheers cheers cheers
do you need to book it in or just rock up with it bounce bounce
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Post  scottb Thu Mar 03, 2011 11:35 pm

Just either text or pm him Aaron Idea
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Post  WIDELOAD Fri Mar 04, 2011 12:00 am

Just PM me Az if you need anything done mate.

What did you break this time?.. lol!
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Post  azwa Fri Mar 04, 2011 12:48 am

WIDELOAD wrote:Just PM me Az if you need anything done mate.

What did you break this time?.. lol!

i'd like a 3 way switch put on my 3rd ch,
did tha mod myself to my tq3,
prefer to let somebody else do it to this tx
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Post  WIDELOAD Fri Mar 04, 2011 12:57 am

What Tx is it?
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Post  azwa Fri Mar 04, 2011 1:40 am

WIDELOAD wrote:What Tx is it?

rc4wd big offroader .

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Post  WIDELOAD Fri Mar 04, 2011 1:46 am

Might not be able to change that one Az.
It all depends on how man poles the stock switch has. If its only a 2 pole switch youre SOL.
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Post  azwa Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:21 am

i tell ya what its handy havin a wealth of knowledge accessible ,
topmarks troy i'll pull her apart & have a look see

cheers azwa
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Post  WIDELOAD Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:51 am

No Probs man.

If there are only 2 terminals on the back of the switch it cant be done. But if there are 3, Bingo..you can put a 3pos in there.
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