WIDELOAD's new project...Its a scaler, but not as you know it.

I reckon the black or gun meatl grey as stated or

a metallic orange with black trim, like the bike pictured i stopped one like this yesterday and it was mint in the sun, this paint however costs $1000 a litre so you might want to look for an alternative.

Thanks for the suggestions boys....I'll see what happens when it comes time for paint...

Ran into a issue tonight after screwing with the wheelbase...Got it dialed in nice.
But now the uppers keep binding up the rod ends...so i've got some more messing round to do to try to solve that issue...

Looks good Troy

im likin what i see....

another new truck to get scratched

Looking good Troy.......candy apple red (it's metallic) with gun metal bits

SkR8Pn wrote:Looks good Troy

Cheer Brother...Hopefully it ends up that way as well...

Aperture wrote:im likin what i see....another new truck to get scratched

Yup...it's going to cop a flogging...

scottb wrote:Looking good Troy.......candy apple red (it's metallic) with gun metal bits

Thanks for the suggestion Scotty, I dont have a good track record with painting red though, so i'm a bit wary of it.

All right...not much progress. Building has slowed down while i wait for parts.

Got the wheel base sorted now & Front body mounts done. In the pics i had the body mounts one hole too far back, so its not lined up in the pics, but it does actually line up (get it?)
Also i think the body could be dropped a little more, but i've got to find my spare body posts. The stock CC01 ones dont have holes far enough down.


Trying to figure out a way to mount the battery 'cause im using smaller packs. Velcro straps fix everything.

They are just screwed into the top side of the 4link mounting screw holes. Works like a cham!
Now that was done i could fill the gaint stock battery hole in the side of the chassis.


Dropped the front cross member to take some of the angle out of the lower A-arms. Only down side to this is screws with the front roll center and now the camber changes through the front suspension cycle. Also can see bump steer being a bit of an issue, hence the servo saver in the above pic:


Last of the morning is my giant shaft... Took 5 stock axial shafts to get this thing made (5 your say...Yeah i made the first one too short & fawked it up ) Added drive shaft rings to hopefully get it to hang together a bit longer.


So as of last night it was drivable in rwd only (front CVD haven't shown up)....Holy sh!t its fun. Stock tyres are they are so hard they spin on anything.
So i put on the BFG's/mud thraser knock offs...Pulls wheelies on the rug, concrete sounds like a 1:1 chuckin a skid (they howl like you wouldnt believe) and grass is close to pulling wheelies.
Minimum crawl speed it about a fast walk (crappy outrunner). Top end is hard to say, I never really opened the taps all the way. But its fast enough to be entertaining.

Still along way to go....

Looking good there troy. With the spacers on the front skid I took the front 2 out to give it a little ackermann angle. You will also have to shave a little off the inside of the C hubs as they will rub at full lock. Also with the front body mounts if you wanted it lower you could've mounted the body posts straight to the chassis rather than using that piece that goes across the front wheel arches.

Cheers Jarrod

Answer's in Cyan mate.

Rustykaos wrote:Looking good there troy. Cheers man...
With the spacers on the front skid I took the front 2 out to give it a little ackermann angle.
The height and more specifically the angle of the of the cross member/A-arms doesn't have anything to do with Ackermann. What you adjusted is the anti-dive and/or Caster (not generally connected in the 1:1 world, but in RC they just about always are)
Ackermann is actually the geometric arrangement of you steering linkages steering geometery and is dertermined by the kingpins, steering knuckles etc not the lower cross member.


You will also have to shave a little off the inside of the C hubs as they will rub at full lock.
Beat ya to it...I made sure i did it before i built the rig.

Also with the front body mounts if you wanted it lower you could've mounted the body posts straight to the chassis rather than using that piece that goes across the front wheel arches.
Thanks for that one, I didnt realise that....D'oh! too late now.
But I've been looking at the height and i'm actually happy with it. Everything clears under suspension cycle and lock to lock, so i'll leave it.
Cheers Jarrod

Got SFA done today...Body is mounted properly now, made a plate for the esc and took it for a bash around the front yard (minus body)

After digging round in the box i found another pair of body mounts that came with the kit, they were about 4mm shorter than the ones i was using so the body height is dialed in now.


Esc mount is just a piece of air craft ally (skin from a constellation passenger plane...) cut, file, drill etc...and bingo, done. But i might have an issue if i put an interior in this thing as the esc sits pretty high in the body.




Top end speed is quick, but not quick enough for me so i'll be gearing it up to a 20t pinion (biggest you can fit in a cc01 without hacking sh!t up).

WIDELOAD wrote:
Top end speed is quick, but not quick enough for me so i'll be gearing it up to a 20t pinion (biggest you can fit in a cc01 without hacking sh!t up).

I,ve got that Emax outrunner here
Give us a yell if you wan,t to borrow it

lunatick wrote:I,ve got that Emax outrunner here
Give us a yell if you wan,t to borrow it

Cheers for the offer paul but that would make is faster than my slash...
Hmmm....tempting...

But i'll give it a miss mate. With this thing not having a slipper clutch i'm worried about killing the drive train already never mind with that much leg up its skirt.
Top speed works out to about: 52-53 km/h... thats scary fast with something this small!

At those speeds that bowler shell wont last very long.

Rustykaos wrote:At those speeds that bowler shell wont last very long.

Yeah man i know! This body is the thinnest one i've had in a while.
I was thinking about getting some carbon rod and making up a 'cage for it, but for sure I'm going to shoe-goo the hell out of the inside of it to try hopefully hang it together for a bit longer than it normally would.

Bit of a pissant update...still waiting for bits so made up a spare tyre mount.
I was going to run dual spares vertically like a 1:1 Bowler does, but i cant do it without hacking the chassis to make room. So i went with a single spare. Still looks cool, but just not exact as the 1:1.

Here's the mount. Made from Styrene to hopefully keep the weight down a bit. Its pretty strong, did a couple of roll overs without the body on concrete and no breakage..

Side on in the body

Through the back window:

looks good

hey troy chuck up a full side view
like the previous pic up above ,
showin the tyrein back .
mount came up sweet nice use of styrene bud



azwa .

It's in pieces at the moment. I'll put it back together in the morning and take a side-on for ya Az.
The styrene mount looks like a dog chewed on it, but its light, pretty strong and works like a cham...plus you cant actually see it once the tyres on...


Got the ally angle cut for the bumpers tonight and the new harder foams for the tyres arrived. So tyres are all glued up to the rims as well.

Next up, fabbing bumper mounts and finish cutting the brick off the chassis....once that's done i can start to seriously think about pain.


EDIT: Oh yeah, and my 20t pinion arrived as well....so lost even more bottom end but she should scoot even quicker now..

Here ya go Azwa...Just for you mate:

WIDELOAD wrote:Here ya go Azwa...Just for you mate:

very nice mate shes coming along nicely

Little bit of an update. Got the front bumper done and locked in today and the rear bumper is all cut out ready to make up mounts for.

Finished cutting off the brick and sealing it back off as well (no pic of that yet).
But ran into a bit of a issue, cut the head lights to put buckets in without double checking the size of the buckets again how big my reamer goes.
Big problem, reamer is 12mm max. Buckets are 19mm.... So now i've got to try and figure out how the fawk to fix it without screwing up the headlights...

Mock up:


Rear bumper:


Front all done and bolted up, i've changed the two button head bolts you can see on top over to counter-sunk ones now to clean it up more:

lookin good mate. shes getting there.

What about a dremel with a sanding wheel to finish off the light holes?

Big fella wrote:lookin good mate. shes getting there.
What about a dremel with a sanding wheel to finish off the light holes?

Cheers man...
I ended up hunting through the shed this morning i found a tapered reamer thats the perfect size...
Just got to make sure i creep up on fit with it.

Looks good sofar Troy I do like the front bumper alot it's good that your enjoying your build mate

Thanks scotty....I'm trying to keep is as close to the 1:1 bowler as possible, so I'm trying to figure out how to put a skid plate under the front like the 1:1 as well.

Rear bumper is all done, light buckets done and are clip fit (i'll still shoe goo them once the paint is done)

With the rear bumper on she's a wheelie machine now!
Wheelies so well it back flipped and snapped the styrene spare tyre mount... Spare tyre mount will now be rebuilt and over-engineered out of ally now..

Might get some pics up later tonight, but most probably tomorrow...

Alright latest pics.

With the light buckets in it makes the front look way more complete:


Rear bumper on. Easy as to mount up as well.


New spare mount. Remade from 3mm ally and way stronger than styrene (no shite):



Colour has been decided. I'm sticking with my original thoughts of metallic blue, only for the reason i found pretty much a full can of it.
So paint should be on in the next few days (i hope).

The i just have to wait for the interior to show up...Story of this build - Waiting for parts.

This has just come out from GPM and will help you to stop stripping the spur gear.

http://gpmracing.com.hk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6130

Was also thinking these tyres would be good as the RC4WD knockoffs will wear out very quickly.

http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/103765/

Cheers for that man....I've been trying to work out someway to jerry rig a slipper set up on it, but that's pretty sweet. I know there was a how-to on Scale 4x4 to put a 32p set up on it using modded stock bits.
The only downside i can see with doing either of them, is it would move breakage down the chain to the bevel gears and/or the transfer gears.

To tell you the truth, i'm really surprised with the knock-off tyres. With the firmer foams i'm running they show next to no wear after 5 pack of flogging on concrete, bitumen, grass and dirt. I've only just taken off the mold rib and the sidebiters are slightly rounded over.
Plus they are dirt cheap, so i'm not overly phased if their tread life is fairly short.

Sorry to Hi jack your thread
But i was wondering if you no what the wheelbase and track width are of the cco1

PS I hate this build
coz its given me ideas and its gonna cost me money

2nd PS Can,t wait to see it finished mate , coz it looks wicked

lunatick wrote:Sorry to Hi jack your thread
But i was wondering if you no what the wheelbase and track width are of the cco1

PS I hate this build
coz its given me ideas and its gonna cost me money

2nd PS Can,t wait to see it finished mate , coz it looks wicked

All good Paul. RustyKaos/Jarrod is the man to see about cc01's mate..he's the OG with these things.

On the tamiya site,tTrack width is width is listed as 195mm, but you can tweak that with different offset wheels and hexs and Wheelbase on the FJ40 one is listed as 252mm, but there are 4 different wheelbase options you can set up out the box.

Cost on these things isnt acutally that bad...You can pick up a kit for no more than AUS$200 if you hunt round. Even hop-ups aren't that bad. Pair of CVD's for under $20

I'm hanging to finish it as well mate. I've just scuffed up the body ready to start paint tomorrow....

WIDELOAD wrote:
All good Paul. RustyKaos/Jarrod is the man to see about cc01's mate..he's the OG with these things.

On the tamiya site,tTrack width is width is listed as 195mm, but you can tweak that with different offset wheels and hexs and Wheelbase on the FJ40 one is listed as 252mm, but there are 4 different wheelbase options you can set up out the box.

Cost on these things isnt acutally that bad...You can pick up a kit for no more than AUS$200 if you hunt round. Even hop-ups aren't that bad. Pair of CVD's for under $20

I'm hanging to finish it as well mate. I've just scuffed up the body ready to start paint tomorrow....

Thanks for the info mate
Been toying with the idea of a Subaru brat ( brumby ) body on a Tamiya df03ra chassis
But now i,m thinking the cc01 might be a bit more fun

Alright everybody i know a few of you lot have been hanging so see the lid painted. Here it is...
Not super happy with out it came out, but it could always be worse..I had issues with the mask i used for the black stripe being old so it lifted in a few spots causing bleed through in a few spots, and the body didn't have over-spray film on the outside so there are a few little blue and silver dots on the outside that i can't get rid of..
To top is off, went out and put the first coat of silver on the rear end...walked back inside, looked at the table and realised i forgot the F**KING REAR WINDOW MASK!!!!!!!!!!!

So now I've got to try and figure out what to do about the rear window, cut it out or just leave it as it and ditch the spare tyre totally.... If you've got any ideas on how to fix it lemme know.

Onto the pics:






Still need to put the wing on as well:



Just need the interior to show up so i can lock this thing down as done...Still waiting for parts

she came up saweeeet troy , these things happen mate i wouldnt worry about the spare she looks just as good without it

That looks awesome makes me want another cc01

Could you cut the window out and put in some mesh
Although i reckon it looks sweet the way it is

The body came out sweet as.