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New Axial scx10, finally..

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New Axial scx10, finally.. Empty New Axial scx10, finally..

Post  Ned-fisch Thu Mar 08, 2012 3:39 am

Hey guys, I have been very silent around here for a while now.. But about time that I come back, and this time I have something to show you all.
I ordered two SCX10's from Total Offroad in Mackay. I ordered them back in Jan, around the 23rd. It wasn't Total offroads fault, but apparently the two packages the size of two 3 foot fish tanks got "lost" In postage.. Yeah, okay Rolling Eyes
So we did another order, with no problems. Brent from total offroad really took care of us. If you don't know of the website, check it out! He can just about get anything in for you, let it be your full size everyday drive or crawler, or parts for your scale crawler. www.totaloffroad.com.au

I am extremely happy with the new Axial, only really one thing let down - my mates scx10 with the new WB8 drive shaft blow off the front axle pinion, loosing a few parts. So for anybody buying this truck, be sure to thread lock the grub screws in the shafts before you take it out. After the problems with the driveshafts, I had a look on ebay and found the Junfac Hardened carbon steel shafts. I have a few tricks up my sleeve to really make these work well. The ripsaws are great, I'm not sure if its the tread pattern, the compound or lack of foam, but they are very good. They've impressed me, very happy with them. The only let down, is that the wheels are not bead lock, and I can see the glued ripsaws coming off in the new future. I think I will try the ripsaws on the old axial bead locks. Hopefully it works, I will let you's know how it goes.
The 27T is a little strong for the rig, she tends to flip a little to easy, but with added weight, I think I'll overcome that problem.
So far, I am extremely happy. Other then the few let downs that I believe everyone in the scale rc world predicted, which are easily fixed.

The electronics are great. I will be getting a proline scx10 floor plan to keep debris and water out as much as possible. Also a hitec Waterproof servo. Although I wont be doing any full on water trails, it'll be the reassurance I will get from it when I go in shallow water and mud bogs.
I wanna do my own tray, and get a new Honcho front cab. I wanna do a 100series cruiser base, this is what I will be basing my customisation on, though this will be a few months down the track.

http://www.justauto.com.au/just4x4s/buy_and_sell/for_sale/a62989b6-6ce4-4aae-9836-65c95bd9a95a?search=advanced&parent_page=%2Fjust4x4s%2Fsearch&looking_for=For+Sale&search_category=&search_region=&keyword


Anyway, now to the part you's all want to see!

New Axial scx10, finally.. IMG_7264

New Axial scx10, finally.. IMG_7266

New Axial scx10, finally.. IMG_7270

New Axial scx10, finally.. IMG_7267

New Axial scx10, finally.. IMG_7269

New Axial scx10, finally.. IMG_7275

New Axial scx10, finally.. IMG_7272

New Axial scx10, finally.. IMG_7274

Ned-fisch

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Post  Jayboy74 Mon Mar 12, 2012 3:42 am

Heyhow's it going, I like the look of the new rigs, the body etc is tidy.

I bought my son a RTR Honcho for Xmas and he's spitting the drive shafts (plastic ####!!)

I have MIP C-Drive splines in mine, but i see they are expensive..

Whilst persuing your photos I noticed that the drive shafts of yours look metal... are these standard, or did you get them to replace the #### plastic ones?

If so what did you go with.

Thanks,

Jase.
Jayboy74
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Post  Rustykaos Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:01 am

They are the stock new ones (WB8 or something) that have a metal universal joint but still use the plastic shafts.

Looking good with the honcho. I like the toyota badging.

Cheers Jarrod
Rustykaos
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Post  Ned-fisch Wed Mar 14, 2012 3:38 am

Hey mate, their said to be "metal - metal" construction, but only the yokes are steel. It had me looking for new shafts. I replied on your thread for the shafts, the Junfac hardened carbon steel shafts have done me very well so far, for the $35 I paid.

Has your son got the new Axial SCX10 (AX90022)?
The new pinion design on the gear box and from the diffs have a small hole in them, maybe 2 mm i'd say. The new grubs screws are a pin with a threaded end basically, holding the shafts on well.

Ned-fisch

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Post  Jayboy74 Thu Mar 15, 2012 2:09 am

No I got him the green RTR Honcho, the shafts are held on by pins to the ends that are grub screwed to the shafts, the sheer pwoer of the RTR kepts spitting the joint with the pin thus the reason I wanted metal ones for him to save losing 4WD mid comp/drive
Jayboy74
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