Panhard setup help

hi all, been runnen a custom made chassis mount servo and bump steer/lack of steer is annoying me and though about toying with the idea to run a panhard link u get in the handbros kits... so i scavenged thru one of my many junk boxes and managed to get enough parts to succedd BUT!!!! now my diff rolls back & forth about 20-30mm.... any suggestions, whats missing, what have i done wrong?

pics








Cheers
Justin

ps. i removed the standard upper Y-link setup from the truck as a few pics i managed to stumble across didnt have it mounted, should i put it back on and run the front as a 5 link setup

Cheers
Justin

your right 5link, just run a single link not the y link. run a one link from the chassis rail (where your original 3link mounted) to the center of the top of the diff. (3link mount on diff tho) you can put it through the ball (small amount of movement still) or mount it to the top of the link mount (servo plate mounting hole).

You will find hat you get more flex with 3 link

But you need to mount you upper link as high as you can on the diff

SkR8Pn - yeah prolly gunna have a play later, i kinda thought thats where id have to be.....

sticka - agree my flex has been great, but my steer sucks like hell, watchen u guys in comp and i have crap steering


well ill let ya know what the results are after.....

Cheers
Justin

Hey Justin the reason you diff is rolling back and forth is you need to run a top link of some sort.
I've got the home brew 3 link/panhard in the front of my Mog. For the top like i used one of the standard top links with the standard steering bar attached to it.
It comes out to the right lenght for a top link.
What i suggest is check out these 2 threads on RCcrawler. they show how to do a homemade 3 link/panhard bar setup
this is mounting the steer servo on the chassis

this is how to do that panhard

Hope it helps

I alway try to keep my upper links and lowere links running as parrell as posible

well back to the beggining.... 5 links (well 4 really) all up on the front, steering is alot better but ill have to do some tests on the rocks to see of im going to benifit out of it...

2 lower links as normal
2 upper links into the Y peice as normal
1 panhard link as shown earlier

no more bump steer but doesnt SEEM to have any more actual turning radius.... help anyone?

Cheers
Justin

Try a longer servo horn, will have less torque but will give you more throw. Are your Cvd's or knuckles maxed out in turning? I've modded my cups and had to make the lower steer link clear the diff center as it would hit before the drive cups and dog bones would max out.

For the panard set up i think you may find that running the stock three link may bind during the articulation of the parnard but it may not due to them being real flimsy. when you fully compress the front, the diff "should " track to one side being off center to the chassis, Two lower links and one upper link running parallel to the lowers with a link "panard" running perpendicular to the other three links. a true panard setup.

Hope this helps bud

as far as i know you wont get anymore steering unless you mod you C hubs, fit cvds & the like.
I didnt notice any change in steering with the 3 link/panhard front
Putting the servo on the frame is more of a scale thing, rather that out & out function.

the arms of the steer knuckles hit the diff b4 the main link hits the diff bulb... im runnen standard C-hubs (alloys coming next) and alloy steering knuckles fitted with one peice CVD's, ive tryed longer arms and i just max out my steering quicker...

ok, why im complaining, at the qrock 4 comp i was watchen alot of others trucks and relised while i was on the track my steering was absolute s*&t i was doing awkward 5 point turns where people were 2 - 3 point turns with style

Cheers
Justin

Since your getting new c's have a crack at modding your c's (plastic ones) see where your steering arms are hitting the c's there probably hitting the phillips head screw first.

Pull the c's off and counter sink where the front screws were, then replace the phillips heads with with counter sunk ones.

Re assemble the c's and knuckles but before you assemble the steering links check to see if the knuckle hits before the cvd's max out.

I have a feeling that knuckle will hit before the cvd will tho. They look smilar to the ones i was rocking back in the day and i replaced them to get the steering where i wanted it.

There is also another way but wait till you get your ally c's first as its probably not wise to do it on the plastic ones.

How is you king pin angle?

when i have the standard Ylink and everything my king pins sit about 2-5 degrees backward.... but its been like that since i built it stock outta the box

WIDELOAD wrote:as far as i know you wont get anymore steering unless you mod you C hubs, fit cvds & the like.
I didnt notice any change in steering with the 3 link/panhard front
Putting the servo on the frame is more of a scale thing, rather that out & out function.

Troy is right here......just like the LCC...the stub axle steer arm angle is what will give you more turn,as my scale Hilux losi does have more turn than any scale Axial.(0 Acrem) or however you spell it.

It shoud be 2-5 degree foward, if it backwards it will keep wanting to turn under its self

ill get a shot of the angles later, see what u think....

for me castor doesnt seem to be his problem, id worry about that after i worked on getting the most out of my cvd's otherwise whats the point of having the cvd's fella's.. just my 2 cents...lol

haha, my point for getten cvd's was watchen a half dozen people with standard cups getten snapped to shreds, plus ive just been upgraden bit by bit

tm659 wrote:haha, my point for getten cvd's was watchen a half dozen people with standard cups getten snapped to shreds, plus ive just been upgraden bit by bit

True, i've never experienced that and mine have been modified lol.. when i got cvd's it was so i would gain more steering without the dog bone seperating from the drive cup during rotation. I must of had bad luck with my MIP's and Axial's cvd's as i killed both....lol